Monday, February 22, 2016

UK Referendum

David Cameron must be regretting every moment that he decided to make such a big deal about "battling for Britain" and getting such a paltry reward after so many months and £s spent on a fruitless exercise. But he must rue even more his offer to hold a Stay or Leave the EU referendum.

Cameron may well go down in history as the man who plunged the knife in to Britain's suicide. Does England want to be a third rate country alone (and hated) in the North Sea, hoping it can at least be a poodle to the United States (itself of diminishing importance) or does it want to be part of one of the largest, most powerful, productive, creative and economically successful unions in the world?

The reaction of the world's economy to the news that the self-promoter -in-chief Boris Johnson wants to leave the EU was predictable - the £ lost more against the value of the $ and the € than at any other time since the banking crisis of 2008. It's obvious that Boris' profile would increase dramatically by uniting with other 'luminaries' (Michael Gove? Ian Duncan Smith?) rather than cow-towing to his fellow Old Etonian David Cameron but perhaps he is playing clever games and really wants to Stay but wants to show he can get more from a deal simply by his dramatic announcement. We'll see.

We now face four more months of expensive, time consuming tedium but if Boris and his acolytes win the day and Britain does vote to leave woe betide the poor, friendless, powerless victim of suicide that used to be one of the greatest countries on the planet.

Monday, April 27, 2009

Letters from Italy

The following Letters from Italy are intended to give a snapshot of life in Rome and in the countryside. Feedback and comments and suggestions welcome!



Marco’s Motorino


OK perhaps I wasn’t as fast off the mark as I would normally have been. I was tired, I had driven my Land Rover down from Casciano and I was momentarily relaxing at the red light on via Petroselli without noticing that the lights had changed.

“Sono solo tre colori !” shouted some thug on a motorino behind me. I looked in my rear view mirror. A 25 year old wearing a battered orange helmet covered in Lazio stickers was sitting on a crappy little red motorino grinning like a Cheshire cat.

I wasn’t going to take this lying down. While I was trying to figure out which hand gesture might suit the occasion the thug sped by smiling disarmingly. Moments later, turning his head and waving goodbye, he cut in front of a police car and headed up to Lungotevere.

When I got to the flat I had rented in via Mameli I discovered that the previous occupants, thinking there were 31 days in the month of June, were still in residence. They were young, honeymooning Belgians so I did the honourable thing. I drove over to Prati and found a hotel.

The Hotel Splendid was anything but. An overweight, spotty, unwashed 20 year old with ‘See Me, Feel Me, Kiss Me’ on her T-shirt asked me to sign the register and, as I was only staying one night, to pay the full amount in advance.

The hotel was horrible. But I was only staying one night and by the following morning I would have my own flat. No lift of course so I lugged my suitcase up four flights of the narrow staircase to my room.

The interior decoration was deliberately insulting. A thread-bare armchair stood by the air vent/ window next to a broken luggage rack. A feeble grey telephone hung on the wall. A single light bulb was suspended from the ceiling encased in a frilly, onetime pink lampshade. The communal bathroom, I already knew, was on the floor below, but it was several minutes before it suddenly dawned on me that there was no bed. Even for the Hotel Splendid this was going a bit far.

I picked up the feeble phone and asked the girl in the sexy shirt where the bed had gone. “The very latest, in vogue, matrimonial bed you will find cunningly enclosed between the mahogany style bookshelves. Simply press the lever at the side of the left hand bookshelf to reveal your matrimonial bed with its double webbed Velux mattress as it folds out of the cupboard” She was obviously reading from some sort of brochure. I was about to make a comment but she hung up.

I went over to the tall cupboard between two plywood, not mahogany, bookshelves and searched for the lever. I pressed it and sure enough the fake cupboard doors fell away from the wall and formed the base of a matrimonial bed.

My room being sorted I left the hotel to find some sort of haven where I could at least observe civilised human beings in pleasant surroundings. I took a taxi to Eur, (‘Universal Exposition of Rome’) the Mussolini ‘satellite city’ where my Irish/Italian friend Michael owns Aqua Lounge, an outdoor bar restaurant swimming pool fitness complex. I paid the taxi and walked past the bouncers towards the terrazza.

As I started up the stairs I saw, parked by a tree, a crappy little red motorino with a battered orange helmet covered in Lazio stickers hanging off its handlebars.

Hmm.

There were several hundred people inside, all looking young, fit and capable of driving crappy red motorinos. Whilst keeping a weather eye on the crowd I had a couple of drinks with two girls I knew and went to pay the bill.

As soon as the cashier opened his mouth I recognized that smile. “So” I said “there are only three colours at a traffic light, huh?”

“Ma ?” he said as he dropped his jaw. Recovering, he pointed at me and said “You! The silver Land Rover! Ciao!” He left the till, came around the counter, kissed me on both cheeks and told me the drinks were on him. And bought me another one. Michael, the owner, came over to join us. Between cashier duties I learned that he was a playwright and an actor named Marco Calvani. He was already quite well established in Italy and Spain but he badly needed to make it in England. I gave him my telephone number even though I wasn’t sure there was much I could do to help.

Saying good bye to Michael and Marco I walked down the steps, past the lovely little red motorino and took a taxi back to the dreadful Hotel Splendid. Terrified that the bed would suddenly close on me in the night, locking me in for the duration, I spent the night on the threadbare armchair.

Now, three years on, Marco is the best of friends. He, Michael, Marco’s flatmate and fellow actor Elisa and I are all part of Marco’s company Mixo’ and yesterday I finished translating the second of his plays into English.

My ‘reward’ was a ride on the back of his brand spanking new black motorino. One thing you should understand about Marco is that he does a thousand things at once. His mind and body are in perpetual motion which is all well and good unless you are a passenger on his motorino. We started off, naturally enough, going the wrong way down a one-way street, weaving among the parked cars, yelling admonishments to drivers brave enough to criticize us and finally entered the rush hour traffic by Circo Massimo. We dodged cars and buses until we got to the head of the queue at the main crossroads, ignored the red light, and inserted ourselves into the midst of a flurry of motorcycles and motorinos that swarmed like wasps towards Piazza Vittoria.

All the while Marco provided a running commentary pointing out places of interest “there’s the FAO building; that’s my favourite bar, there’s the department store MAS, this is where Giancarlo lives…”. Each time he would look back at me to see that I was listening, appreciating, paying attention…..ignoring the road in front of him, oblivious to the cars on either side of us.

I of course had long since resigned myself to the fact that in all likelihood this would be my last journey, my final ride and that I would simply end up as another statistic on Rome’s daily quota of road accidents. We took a short cut across a pedestrian bridge over the railway line, through the No Entry signs at Pigneto, stopped off at Campobasso for a drink, found the bar closed so made for Monti. As we passed Santa Maria Maggiore I was momentarily tempted to convert before it was too late but my thoughts were interrupted by the squillo of Marco’s cell phone.

Entering Piazza Venezia on the back of a motorino while the driver is not only talking to you, looking at you as he does so, but simultaneously (everything Marco does is simultaneous) talking on the phone, is not a recipe for stress free living.

But it is infinitely preferable to driving down via Cavour at break-neck speed as he simultaneously texts messages to friends in Germany.

Somehow we survive to enjoy a celebratory marguerita at the bar in Monti before heading out to dinner with actor friends in via Mameli.

By the time dinner is over and it’s time for Marco to drop me off he announces that he’s a little drunk. Of course, the missing ingredient!

Fortunately I was too, so we had a nice, relaxed, trouble free ride home through the back streets of Trastevere, I think.

.

Ristorante

On my way to lunch I stopped off at a little hole in the wall “shop” called Spaccio Carbone. I wanted to buy a cooking implement the name of which I didn’t know in English, let alone Italian. It’s round and like a spatula – perhaps it’s a round spatula? I found a flat spatula hanging amongst the cobwebs and told the ancient owner that I wanted “a round one of these”. “Ah”, he said accompanied by various facial contortions, “faccio vedere”. He situated himself in the far left corner of the room surrounded by an assortment of dead (surely?) batteries, washing up materials manufactured long before such things as sell-by dates existed, baskets of assorted mouse-traps, soaps, alabaster Madonnas and plastic forks. He took a deep breath and closed his eyes.

Not quite sure what was going on I looked around feigning curiosity but kept one eye on the old man. He opened his eyes and started to walk, head swivelling from left to right and up and down as he advanced. “Here?” he’d stop at one basket and search “No”. And then a little further on, the same thing. “No, no, no, no………” I was beginning to despair. I was already late for lunch and concerned my table would be given to some undeserving person who happened by. “L’ho visto, sono sicuro”, he was sure he had seen one (“In 1943, maybe” I thought to myself). He then returned to the starting position and once again took a deep breath and closed his eyes. I was about to call it a day when his eyes suddenly opened wide establishing eye contact with me, albeit involuntarily, for the first time. He walked, unimpaired, directly to a hanging basket, reached around to the side that had not seen light for a good many years, if ever, and ‘Eureka’ out came something like a spatula, only round.

“Ecco, 5 euros” he raised five fingers, helpfully, on his left hand. I could see that the label on the implement said 3 euros but given storage time, inflation since 1943 etc. I offered him 4 and left for the restaurant, his molto grazies ringing in my ears.

I don’t know what it is about me but restaurant owners tend to be ashamed of me. No sooner do I set foot in their restaurant, especially when I am alone, than they hustle me away from the daylight to the back of the room to sit among fifteen or twenty people, invariably with little children , far away from the more elegant parts of the restaurant outside in the sun or shade depending on the weather. Perhaps it’s because I look poor or don’t dress well enough? But seated in the elegant outside are Americans in dirty T-shirts and torn jean and Brits in outfits of clashing colours wearing socks with sandals! (Who was it that said they wished that wearing socks with sandals would give you cancer? ) What could be worse? Me, I guess.

But today I tried, I really tried. All my clothes are clean and freshly ironed; nothing clashes and I am wearing sandals, true, but with bare feet and I cut my toe nails especially lest anyone should be bored enough to take a glance. It’s all very perplexing. Plus I am invariably seated with the staff and today is no exception.

Firstly, there is the nursing mother to contend with. Every time I look in her direction she is fondling a breast while feeding her little girl. She always appears to be looking at me even though I try to time my glances to avoid such an occurrence. They say the birth rate in Italy is zero – you wouldn’t believe it if you frequented the sort of restaurants I frequent. The rooms are always buzzing with offspring barely nine months apart in age. And unlike in England, where they would be ignored if allowed in at all, here these babies reduce the entire adult population, me included, to babyhood. We stare at their antics, ooh and ahh out loud and interpret every sound and gesture as indicative of nascent brilliance.

And now I come to think of it these characters in the back of the restaurant with me are nothing to write home about themselves which makes their apparent disdain for me doubly mystifying. The mother of the children has a resigned air about her and, irritatingly, speaks in a dialect I don’t even recognize let alone understand. The presumed father (I’m still not quite sure of the exact relationships given that everyone acts as thought they are the adoring parents, but I hope I am safe in assuming that the breast feeding woman is the mother) anyway, the presumed father is wearing his trousers well below the recommended level for decency; and pretty soon the cook, looking like a matron in a particularly sinister psychiatric hospital, comes out from her den (the kitchen) and comes over all gooey and cuddly with the baby, in fact with all the babies.

It transpires that all twenty of these people are related, intimately so. The cook is apparently the grandmother (at least she is referred to as Nonna) the chief waiter is Nonno and the other waiter is Zio. I think he is also the brother of the children’s father. But that’s just a guess.

I sit respectfully quiet and adoring of the babies in turn.

When it’s time to pay the bill the father with his pants too low sends his eldest son (aged 3) over to me with the bill and a disposable camera. The kid’s aim isn’t too hot so he takes pictures of my sandals (perhaps it’s my freshly trimmed toe-nails?) and the floor. He hands me the bill. I give him a 20 euro bill for his Nonno, and a 20 centismo tip for himself. He says “Grazie Babbo (Father)” Now I don’t blame him for being confused but………goodness, maybe? No, no, no, three years ago?……. No, no, no.

Determinedly avoiding eye contact with the nursing mother I beat a hasty retreat.


Trastevere


I was served my coffee by the young person of indeterminate sex and sat at a small table outside the bar with the morning paper. Unlike in Naples where you are severely reprimanded if you attempt to read your newspaper and drink your coffee at the same time (coffee drinking being akin to a religion in Naples), in Rome they don’t give a damn. They don’t even make fun of tourists who order cappuccino (considered a breakfast drink) long past 10:00 a.m.

So, unmolested, I read, drank and viewed the early morning bustle in Piazza San Francesco a Ripa (St Francis by the Docks, which it used to be, the docks long since having disappeared).

I had a 7:30 a.m. appointment to visit the church of the same name and I was waiting for Monsignor Olivieri whose acquaintance I had made at a bookstore the previous day.

I was staring absent mindedly across the piazza when I noticed a short, plump figure, brown robes blowing in a welcome early morning breeze, making a bee-line for my table. Monsignor Olivieri was a monk on a mission and he had no time to waste. “Buongiorno, buongiorno” he grabbed my hand and virtually pulled me from my seat. Speaking and walking rapidly he started lecturing me “Now first, we are going to visit one of the small chapels which has an abundance of treasures, Simon Vouet, a follower of Caravaggio, he was one of the foremost painters of the 17th century as I’m sure you know.” ( ? doubtful. Ed.)

I couldn’t respond even if I wanted to, so out of breath was I. He swung open the church door and marched me direct to the chapel in question. My eyes were so transfixed by an enormous, ghastly, garish coloured sculpture of the Madonna that I temporarily lost concentration. The Monsignor never paused.

“As you can see Vouet’s Nativity of the Virgin is a very special capolavoro imbued with feeling and religiosity. And over the altar you will have recognised the Flemish artist Marten de Vos painting of the Immaculate Conception.” I was beginning to get worried that the Monsignor had mistaken me for some world-renowned art historian. Thankfully he was still in full flow, and unlikely to stop.

“Behind the chapel is the tomb of Giorgio De Chirico”

“Ah, the twentieth century metaphysical painter and sculptor” I said, having quickly read the notice whilst the Monsignor was talking about immaculate conception.

“Of course” he replied.

Passing over the second chapel, due to lack of time, he pulled back a rope at the third and brought me face to face with Saint Charles of Sezze (d. 1670). His body had been embalmed and coated with wax and now lay inside a glass box, all of which I found quite disturbing. I was interested to note that St Charles was holding a copy of one of his own publications in his hand. An original form of advertising ….

But Monsignor Olivieri was either running out of time or running out of patience so we only had time for one more chapel. “And here at last is Bernini’s famous statue of Blessed Ludovica Albertoni one of the highest expressions of the Baroque……….”

I don’t know what it is with Bernini and maybe I’m wrong but this lady, rather like his even more famous statue of Santa Teresa in the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria, is clearly experiencing some sort of ecstasy that would not normally be classified as divine, at least by the Church. Not wanting to linger too long on this thought lest the Monsignor should read my mind I concentrated hard on his explanation of how the rear wall of the chapel had been pushed back to allow two windows to throw more light onto Blessed Ludovica, which was of course undeniably ingenious of Bernini.

Time had run out. Monsignor Olivieri was required elsewhere. I thanked him effusively and stood for a minute in front of the church and watched as, to my surprise, he strode over to a miniscule Fiat Toppolino parked near the church, manouvered his considerable bulk into it and bumped across the piazza and out of sight.

In the afternoon I stopped for a restorative coffee at a rather seedy bar on the way to Via Porta Portese. The surly father, face twitching from some unfortunate malady, took my 10 Euro note and gave me change for 5 hoping I wouldn’t notice. I did and he reluctantly gave me a 5 Euro note. His unattractive wife and doltish son served behind the bar. I quickly downed the espresso and, as I left, I noticed a collection box with a few coins inside. Above it was a printed notice saying “For a family in need”. I had a pretty good idea whose family that was.

Near the corner of Via Porta Portese and Via Jacopo de’ Settesoli I passed by a dilapidated looking structure which I knew to have been the former Casa della GIL (HQ of the fascist youth group). It was designed by a guy called Luigi Moretti who seemed to have an instinct for sinister buildings. He also designed the Foro Italico (originally Foro Mussolini) to show off para-military prowess and the Watergate complex in Washington.

On account of my early start I opted for an early dinner at my favourite restaurant, Da Enzo on Via dei Vascellari. Marcello is the taciturn owner who’s excellent sense of humor is ignited by young female clients. For the rest of us no smile, he just points over his shoulder at a table and looks at you with the “e allora?” look so beloved of Romans (and Italians in General). They suddenly develop an extra few inches of thoracic muscle enabling the face to protrude frog-like from the neck; eye brows raised; eye balls popping out of their sockets (hands, if not otherwise engaged) in open supplication – the entire body involved in the unspoken but loudly clear exclamation, meanings ranging from “ so, what do you want?” to “what do you want me to do about it?” to “I can’t believe I am wasting my time talking with an ignoramus like you.” I am regularly subjected to all three and thus have come to interpret the multiple actions pretty accurately.

My friends Marco and Aldo joined me for supper. Lightly fried zucchini flowers and artichokes; polpette, spinaci, insalata verde and delicious tiny fragole with zucchero e limone. At 10:30 we walked to the local movie house to see Sex and the City. When the lights went up two and a half hours later we discovered we were practically the only males there and certainly the only ones over 18. Boh!

The Exiles Lunch

I drove up from Rome to Siena for a wedding only to find that it had been cancelled as the bride-to-be was suffering from post natal depression.

So I went to see my friend Fabio instead. He and his architect boyfriend Bruno run a “low cost” B&B (so low cost they omit the second B) in the Chianti hills above Panzano. Fabio’s friend Antonella prepared a delicious lunch – Bruschette with tomatoes and lardo, mm, Pasta piccantissima (a bit too), Apples, Pecorino and, unusually, a Tuscan white, from Trecciano – which we consumed outside, surrounded by flowering bushes of sweet smelling rosemary and irises, and views of vineyard covered hills beneath us. After lunch we drove down to Panzano to meet Dario Cecchini, the butcher (Macellaio) and poet who spouts Dante (particularly Inferno) as he chops. Unsurprisingly he is a popular regular on Italian TV. Fabio used to work there so it was kisses all around, tours behind locked doors (it is also a restaurant – or I should say, Casa da Macellaio) and a preview of MacDario’s (the Mac being short for Macellaio) an open air “low cost” (the Italians love this term) section of the restaurant, opening soon. Dario gave me a free jar of salt, a wet kiss, showed me an article from the LA Times headed “The most famous butcher in the world” and several other magazines he just happened to have handy. Then Fabio took me to another building where the Signoras were busy cooking vast pots of meat – Dario only serves red meat, all coming from the same farm run just for him, in Spain. “I haven’t yet found an Italian producer to my satisfaction”. Nothing to do with it being cheaper then.

Next, we went to visit Fabio’s Uncle Pietro, an artist, who works (and sleeps) in an enormous vaulted room beneath what remains of Panzano’s castle. Fabio rapped on the door, “Arrivo” came the response. A small, round man aged about 60 opened the door dressed in an artist's smock and wearing blue glasses that had flashing electric lights running all round much as they do on highways at night warning you of upcoming curves in the road. The room was empty save for enormous brightly painted canvasses; a radio, artists' tools and an iron bedstead, recently vacated, in front of a window with spectacular views of the vineyards in the protected south facing section of Panzano. The whole room permeated by the seductive smell of oil paint. Turns out this building too belongs to Dario!

The following day I went to lunch with an English couple, Heather and David Roberts. Heather is a tall, thin, prison visitor and David looks just like Henry VIII. He has recently completed archiving the contents of Harold Acton’s Villa La Pietra in Florence. Just an everyday couple really.

Frustratingly David can’t release any of his work. Acton bequeathed Villa La Pietra and all its contents to New York University but his Will is now being contested by a local lady who claims she is an illegitimate child of Acton’s father. Ah Italia!

Coincidentally I had driven right by the Roberts’ front door without knowing it on a shortcut that Roberto (my Sat Nav voice and constant travelling companion) found for me on my return to Siena from Fabio’s the day before. This was an “Exiles lunch” as Heather had warned me on the phone. Apart from Heather and David and their son there was an Anglo Italian couple whom I had met previously, Bruno and Victoria Davanzzi, an American artist named Richard something and his wife Dorothy who live in Florence and a most extraordinary American trompe l'oeil painter who arrived in a car with Palm Beach Florida license plates. She lives in a "just fabulous" apartment near, if not in, Palazzo Pitti. I think her name is Tanya. If not it should be. She wore a large sun hat to protect her face. I never saw her eyes because she never took her dark glasses off.

I sat between Heather and Victoria and had a delicious Sicilian salad (mushrooms, capers, celery, peppers etc.) slices of pork (or was it chicken, yes probably) and lashings of the local vino. Victoria is delightful but quite deaf and not only has two hearing aids but points a little black machine at you when you’re speaking, which I found quite disconcerting.

I dutifully wrote my hosts, Heather and David, a thank you e-mail the following day and asked what Richard, the American artist’s name was. Heather’s reply was short and to the point.

Good to see you too, Bing. Richard’s name is Serrin
And David’s name is Mark

Woops!

Wednesday, February 06, 2008

Commonplace Book

"All the grand sources of human suffering are in a great degree, many of them almost entirely, conquerable by human care and effort" J.S. Mill

'Bacco, tabacco e Venere riducano il'uomo in cenare' Venetian proverb

'To live is to build a ship and a harbor at the same time and to finish the harbor long after the ship has gone down' Yehuda Amichai

'Emerence was like Jehovah, she punished for generations' The Door Magda Szabo

'Where the heart is concerned, there are no insignificant events - it magnifies all things' The History of the 13 Balzac

'Simple people are capable of sublime devotion' Balzac

'The bitterness she had inside, and brought out in others, turned her ugly' La Mennulara Simonetta Agnello Hornby (what an unlikely name!)

'Everyone must do his own believing as he will have to do his own dying' Martin Luther

'When power and fame are over what remains is family (and the Guardian Crossword of course)' James Callaghan

'Man's nature could be fully realized if only he knew what he really wanted. If a man can discover what there is in the world, and what his relationship is to it, and what he is himself - however he has discovered it, by whichever method, by whichever recommended or traditional path to knowledge, he will know what will fulfill him, what, in other words, will make him just, happy, virtuous, wise.' Isaiah Berlin from Crooked Timber of Humanity

'
Innocence is like a dumb leper who has lost his bell, wandering the world meaning no harm' Quiet American Graham Greene

'Men find here throughout all their youth a way of living commensurate with their beauty. After that, decay and oblivion. They've staked all on the body - and they know that they must lose' Summer in Algiers Albert Camus

'The education he had received bore little relation to the education he needed' The Education of Henry Adams Henry Adams

'Our own worth is measured by what we devote our energy to' Meditations Marcus Aurelius

'Men never do evil so completely and cheerfully as when they do it from religious conviction' Blaise Pascal

'Affliction is a good man's shining time' Edward Young

'For time may have yet a better success in reserve for you, and they who lose today may win tomorrow' Cervantes

'Marriage is rather like the nursery rhyme. It starts off with a lot of sucking and blowing and in the end you lose the house' John Mortimer

'Those qualities that make a man odious and unamicable in private life are very successful in public. especially when added to great application and probably both to ambition and every other branch of the selfish and interested passions' Life and Letters of Sir Gilbert Elliot, 1st Earl of Minto

'
that he should hold in his esteem his dreams of youth, if he will be a man one day.....That he not stray, e'en if the voice of wisdom speak out from muddy depths its calumny against enthusiasm, heaven's daughter' Schiller

'He has the youth of his enthusiasms' Henry Adams

'She has the faults of her virtues, and her virtues are many' Henry Adams

Amongst the Moorish nomads 'a much darned and patched piece of cloth is often far more expensive to buy than a new piece, because patchwork carries the imprint of human associations' Bruce Chatwin

'He had about him the unassailable tranquility of men who feel at ease with themselves' Seta Alessandro Baricco

'It's looking like it's more fun on the other side' Guest at Frank Sinatra's funeral

'Music that is good for you disturbs, involuntarily, like an erection' Paris Diary Ned Rorem

'Continuous learning is as good for your self-esteem as regular sex' Helena Kennedy

'I don't like political correctness. I don't believe in rigidity' Helena Kennedy

'Americans always take whatever faith or crusade or presentation they go in for to extremes. But then the hurricane passes and is forgotten.' Doris Lessing

'Sentimentality is often the sign of an impure origin. Sentimentality and cruelty are siblings: cruelty often wears a simpering smile' Doris Lessing

My favorite Haiku which I share with you............

Of the infinite steps to my heart
He climbed one
Or perhaps
Two

'His gravedigger's breath distorted her arpeggios' on the effect of the Harp Teacher in Love in the Time of Cholera Gabriel Garcia Marquez

'Stardom is the intersection of personality with history' New Yorker

'
Home is where your friends are' Bruce Chatwin

'The present is so strong in New York that the past is lost' Whitney Museum, NYC

'Jackie Kennedy had a whim of iron' a friend

'Our lives are messages by our bodies embottled, afloat in the great sea of the world. We wash up on other folks' shorelines, they on ours. Many go unread, misread, some are read to death and a lucky few meet their ideal readers' Once Upon a Time John Barth

'Every time I can stretch a hand over the divide of politics and class and religion, and touch on something that is mutually understandable, I feel it's a small achievement, a tiny defeat of prejudice' Colin Thubron

'Happy are they who live in the dream of their own existence;.....who watch by faith and hope; to whom the guiding star of their youth still shines from afar, and into whom the spirit of the world has not entered. they have not been 'hurt by the archers' nor has the iron entered their soul. The world has no hand on them' Hazlitt

'I'd always rather do something than be something' Denis Healy

'.......when the human spirit departs it takes with it the vital stuffing of life. Then only the inanimate corpus remains, which is the least of all things that makes us human' How we Die Sherman Nuland

'The French gastronome and playwright Mirande said 'he didn't like making love to society women because they kissed as though they were sipping creme de menthe through a straw' Between Meals in Paris A.J.Liebling





Italy

What the hell is happening in Italy?

How can one of the most beautiful, creative countries in the world with everything going for it - people, food, wine, weather - be screwing everything up so badly that it seems they are bent on self destruction?

How can they be bringing back Berlusconi after the mess he made before; with all his shady connections; with the buffoonery that characterized his last administration in the eyes of the rest of the world. There are already 39 'parties' THIRTY NINE and 'almost eighty crooks in parliament' (see beppegrillo.it) how can that lead to anything stable (it can't) only to an open door for further abuse, corruption and the rape of Italy by unscrupulous politicians, mafiosi, parliamentarians (often interchangeable) and others.

What can be done to stop this happening????

Wednesday, September 27, 2006

Maquis

These are the first few chapters of an unpublished novel I have written based on a true story. It describes the adventures of a 26 year old conscientious objector who has a change of heart and becomes one of the most successful spies of World War II. Joey Quantock, whose nom de guerre is 'Luc', is dropped behind enemy lines north east of Paris in March 1943. Almost immediately he is pursued by the Nazis, and by one Sergeant Karl Metzger in particular....

I would be very grateful for any constructive comments you may have whether it be on style, content or any other aspect of the book....Many thanks!



The Secret War of Joseph Quantock

© Bing Taylor

(Based on an extraordinary true story)


Somewhere over France, March 1943

Guided by the March moon a lone Lysander makes its way across the English Channel and heads for the gap in flak defences near Quend-Plage. Once through the gap the pilot turns the aircraft swiftly to avoid attracting the attention of the fighter base at Abbeville. The night skies are unusually busy with Nazi Junkers flying between Paris and points east. The Luftwaffe pilots don’t seem to notice the distinctive carrot shape of the unlit Lysander a thousand feet below.

On board the tiny plane are two secret agents on their way to be dropped inside Occupied France. The older man is Charles Decosse, head of the Lyon circuit of the French Resistance. The younger man is Joseph Quantock, a twenty-six year old American.
This is his first mission as an agent of the Special Operations Executive (SOE), the ungentlemanly warfare department set up in great secrecy by Winston Churchill in July 1940. Its mission is sabotage and subversion behind enemy lines.

Within three days Decosse will be dead and Quantock will be a hunted man.




1
Groombridge, Kent. Nine months earlier.

I stretch, throw back the sheet, grab my cigarettes and jump out of bed to open the shutters. The Kent countryside looks idyllic in the early morning sun. Hard to believe there’s a war on. I take a satisfying drag of my post-coital cigarette. Nothing stirs on the ploughed fields. Only silence on the track that passes by the cottage on its way to the big house. A bit different from Africa...dead bodies; panic; screams; poison – Fuck Mussolini.

I catch sight of my naked body in the mirror. Fit, no sign of fat - three years of physical labour have seen to that. A scar runs from my right hip and disappears into my pubic hair. Not a botched appendectomy but the wound from a knife stab intended to emasculate me. It was a close call. Desperate for a job, I fell in with the wrong crowd in Marrakesh and almost paid for it with my life.

It’s seven a.m. The lads will be at the barn soon, awaiting their orders. I mustn’t be late.

On my bed, half covered by the sheet, Lucy Price, the red haired upstairs maid at the big house, is silently watching me.

“Come back to bed Joey. I haven’t finished with you yet.”

She pulls down the sheet and S-shapes her body seductively to show the small of her back. She knows it drives me crazy. I stub out the cigarette, walk over and gently spank her bum.

“You know we’ve got to get to work Lucy Price. It’s already late. Aren’t you ever satisfied?”

“Nope”

I lean over, pull back a wisp of hair that is sticking to her lips and give her a kiss.

“Time isn’t running out” I say, pulling on some clothes for the walk to the outdoor privy.

But I’m sure Lucy thinks it is. And she’s probably right. When I first came to work on the estate eighteen months ago they tell me she bet the other girls that she’d be the first to get me into bed – and she was. The only one in fact. She says she likes me because I’m different from the others - born in America, speaks French, has travelled a lot. “You’re not exactly good looking” she says “but not bad looking either”. We have fun, in bed and out, but she wants more. And I’m not ready for that.

I walk back into the house and put the pot on the stove for coffee. Lucy is already dressed and downstairs putting on her shoes.

“Do you want some toast Luce?”

“Not this morning Joey. I’ll get some at the big house”

She puts on her coat, gives me a quick kiss and a “see you later” and leaves.

The coffee tastes bitter but it’s good and strong. I sit down at the kitchen table to lace up my boots for the walk across the fields to the barn. Too young to serve in the army, the guys who work on the farm are a good bunch. They respect me. I respect them. We make a good team.
The people in the village are a different matter. They don’t trust me. I know that. Why am I not fighting in the war given that I’m young and fit? Especially now that the Yanks have joined in! They think I must be on the run or something. At any rate that’s the gossip. I try to ignore it. Let them avert their eyes and purse their mean little mouths all they want. I just get on with my job.

I get to the barn at 7:30. The other lads are all there. We have a quick chat while I give them their jobs for the day. One of the younger ones, fifteen year old Billy Knox, comes to work with me on the front drive where we’ve got to chop down some chestnut trees.

Billy and I chat together as we walk the mile or so up the drive. The postman rides past on his bicycle; twenty or more allotment workers follow; we take a short-cut through the woods and surprise a couple of stags who scamper off. It’s a bracing morning and I love the everydayness of things.

Billy reminds me of myself ten years ago – he’s a bit of a loner; often gets into trouble, through boredom more than anything else. He seems to have a bit of a grudge against the world. But I can see that he’s intelligent and underneath all the aggression he’s got s good heart. We set to work, separately but within shouting distance of one another.



Precisely at 7:30, Bosworth, the butler, a retired army batman, brings the morning coffee into the drawing room at the big house.

Lord Horley, government minister and local landowner, is seated at his writing table, gazing out through the ageing sash windows. He quietly surveys the view, an Arcadian vision of lawn, lake and temple, arranged, over the past fifty years, to his own design but lately transformed into something resembling an allotment owners’ convention. Such are the demands of wartime Britain. At least, he consoles himself, his position in the government has prevented the house from being requisitioned.

His regimented household - butler, estate manager, gardeners, cook, scullery maid, upstairs and downstairs maids, chauffeur, groom and stable boys plus three foresters and the inevitable lads from the village - has been severely depleted.

Fortunately for the Minister he still has Bosworth, the butler, Mrs Reed the cook of course (most of the female staff have remained in place) and Sutton, the Head Gardener. All the others have joined the military in one form or another, replaced by a motley array of those who couldn’t qualify for medical reasons, those too young to fight, a German POW and that American forester, Joseph Quantock, who, they say, refuses to serve in any army.

A colleague of Horley’s in the War Office brought Quantock to his attention. The young American had been working in Suffolk for some acquaintance of his, but really wanted a forester’s job. Especially one that came with a house. And now he is here.

“’Scuse me milord!” says the immaculately groomed Bosworth, putting down the coffee tray.

“Sorry Bosworth, I was lost in thought”

“Colonel Buckmaster has called, milord. He says he’ll be happy to stop by on his way to London this morning as you requested. He’ll be here by 10:30.”

Horley sips his coffee very slowly, satisfied that at last he is going to get to the bottom of this secret army business.


Thinking about Billy Knox gets me thinking back to my own early life and how it has ended up with Billy and me, stripped to the waist, working for some English nobleman. The same old questions keep popping up – why am I here? why am I not fighting in the war? (maybe the villagers are right after all?) am I afraid? am I just a ne’er do well loner? I’ll never be sure unless I’m put to the test.

We lived in Wilton, Connecticut just north of New York City. My Dad was a musician, a saxophonist, and a ladies’ man. He stayed somewhere in New York during the week and often didn’t come home for weeks on end. My Mom taught blind kids but more and more she turned to the gin bottle for comfort. Bertha, our black maid, was always more of a real mom to me even though she had eight children of her own.

When I was 10 years old, my parents were killed in a car crash. Bertha offered to take me in but the lawyers would have none of it. My Aunt Agatha, who lived in Philadelphia, said she couldn’t cope with me (I’d been in quite a few scrapes at school). My only other relation was an uncle I’d never met, named Sam. He was an artist and lived in France. So a week after the funerals the family lawyer and I sailed to France. I’d never been abroad and I found this new, unfamiliar country very exciting. Everywhere you looked there was something interesting and new to see. But it was frustrating not to be able to understand what the people were saying. We caught the train from Paris to the town of Paray-le-Monial. Then we got a taxi to a little hamlet about five miles away called Tollecy, near the village of Prizy in Burgundy.

Uncle Sam’s house was big with beautiful views over rolling green hills. It looked a bit like Vermont where my grandparents had lived, except here the cows were all pure white. The housekeeper’s name was Madame Joupin. She had a son about my age named François. François had a wooden leg. Uncle Sam was much older than my mother. He had a warm smile and was kind, and wise. He wore bright clothes and everyone seemed to like him.

I wanted François to be my friend so I studied hard in the French lessons which Uncle Sam arranged for me. Pretty soon my French was good enough for me to attend school. François and I walked across the fields to the school in Prizy every day. We became like brothers. The only brother each of us had ever had.

When we were old enough we went to secondary school in Paray-le-Monial. Life there was pretty good on the whole. I only really got into trouble once. The school bully, a boy called Philipe Morseau, was picking on a kid half his size. I lost my temper and punched him so hard I knocked him out. I was only suspended for a week.

When I was 18, Uncle Sam caught pneumonia and died and my world was turned upside down, again. Now seemed like a good time to move on. Uncle Sam bequeathed me the house and all its contents. As usual, I talked things through with François.

“You go Joey. See the world” said François “I’ll stay here and take care of things till you get back. I belong here. These are my people. I’ll be here when you return”

I let François live in the house rent free in return for looking after it. If he rented out rooms we agreed to share the income fifty-fifty. We opened a bank account for the purpose. Two days later I took off. My first destination was Ethiopia, which I had located on an Atlas the night before I left. It looked mysterious, different and far, far away.

I hitch hiked across Italy to the port of Brindisi. There I signed on to a fishing trawler that plied its way across the Mediterranean. I jumped ship in Alexandria and walked, rode and generally finagled my way down to Ethiopia where somehow I got myself a job teaching English and sports at a secondary school in Makelle, the main town of Tigre, Ethiopia’s northernmost province.

Having lost both of my parents and my Uncle Sam, I felt free and independent and my own man for the first time in my life. The country was beautiful, the people were beautiful. But I took nothing for granted. I never would again. Which was just as well because this was 1935, Benito Mussolini was on the warpath and Tigre was very vulnerable, because it bordered on the Italian colony of Eritrea.

Tuesdays were market days in Makelle. On one particular Tuesday, in late December, several hundred people, mainly women and children, were buying and bartering in the busy market. The air was dense with the smells of eucalyptus and berbere, the hot spice that Tigreans use in sauces, if they can afford it. Flies buzzed everywhere. When resting, they formed a circle around the eyes and mouths of the children. Glaucoma was everywhere.

I went to the market that day to buy bread, as usual. Little kids dressed in rags - if that -followed me. They thought I was exotic and even tried to rub away my white skin to see if I were black underneath! The air was heavy with the smell of spices. I watched the camel trains loaded with salt, mined in the Danakil desert, wending their way into the market place. Ordinary people averted their eyes as the fearsome Danakil warriors guided the camels through the maze. Women, wearing the shamas they had slept in, sold bread, bright red berbere, cloth, hand made baskets, charcoal, roots for cooking-fires carefully dug that morning from the soil. It was all laid out on small rugs or pieces of cloth that marked the extent of each seller’s patch.

It was the busiest time of the market, around noon, upwards of five hundred people were there. Many of them walked twenty or thirty miles or more to sell or trade their wares. I bought some bread and headed for the tej bet, or beer house, near to my own house. Tej bets could be found all over town but the honey wine they sold varied in quality. I reckoned that the young widow Woizero Taitu’s was the best. Many an evening I had sampled it (along with other more personal delights when she was in a giving mood) once the old men had gone back to eat supper with their wives. Besides I liked to talk philosophy with the men who gathered there to chat and drink - while their wives and children worked.

When I got to the tej bet that day I pulled back the curtain of the mud built room. Seven or eight men were sitting inside, wrapped in their cotton cloaks or gobbis. As always, they all stood up, bowed a welcome, shook my hand and made room on the bench. They do that for everybody not just for me! Woizero Taitu brought me a birle of the rich mead. She smelled of rancid butter.

No sooner had I brought the glass bottle to my lips than the ear-splitting noise of fighter planes, flying dangerously low, forced us all to cower. None of us moved. Once the planes had passed over we stared at each other, nonplussed, unmoving.

Then we gathered our wits about us, ran out of the tej bet and searched the skies for an explanation. We didn’t have to wait long. The three planes returned, flying even lower. Each plane dropped ten bombs.

“My God, they’re bombing the market place!” someone yelled. We ran to take shelter and stared in disbelief as the planes circled once more and disappeared.

With a mixture of relief and fury, the other men and I ran to the market. The sound of wailing could be heard all over the town. Everywhere people were running, some towards the market to find their wives and children. Others away from the market clutching their blood-stained shawls about their bodies

The sight that greeted us will remain etched in my mind forever. The deafening screams of women, children and animals; live people, their bodies ripped open and their bowels lying in the dust. Dismembered limbs, blood, dirt, vomit………a terrible stench and another, unfamiliar, smell. Garlic? Horseradish?

It took twelve hours for the first signs to appear. Gradually, those that had survived the bombing in the market noticed mustard coloured blisters on their skin which quickly grew in size. Then they started to bleed, internally and externally. The gas, dropped with the high explosive shells, attacked their bronchial tubes and stripped them of their mucous membranes. The pain was unbearable. People had to be strapped down. They spoke in gasps, choking gasps. Their eyes became sore, sticky and then stuck together – permanently.

Permanent wasn’t long for many of them, but long enough. It took four or five weeks for them to die.

I left Makelle two weeks after the massacre. Horrified by the barbarism of war, loathing the unquestioned obedience to authority which made decent people do such indecent things. I had frequent, terrible, nightmares always ending with Italian pilots laughing and joking on their way back to their sweethearts after bombing Makelle’s innocents with mustard gas.

I bummed around Africa for three and a half more years. I was interested to see that, despite my new found aversion to violence, I had no qualms in fighting off Nigerian bandits trying to get hold of the vaccine I was transporting so they could sell it on the black market. I was less successful in fighting the opium smugglers in Marrakesh, who may still be looking for me now for all I know. I washed dishes in Lagos; cut down trees in the Congo; worked as a Wildlife guide in South Africa and caught the clap in Kenya.

In January 1939 I ended up coming to England to start a new life – away from Moroccan drug dealers, away from Africa and from war, away from America and from France and their memories, both good and bad. I wanted to wipe the slate clean.

I got a job working on a farm near the Suffolk town of Dunwich, on the North Sea coast. I made friends with the daughter of the publican of ‘The Ship Inn’. At night she and I would wander down to the beach and make love and listen out for the bells that the locals swore they could hear tolling from the sixty or so churches buried beneath the sea. On wet afternoons the fellows who cut the hay would gather in the barn and talk about old times and impart advice on the intricacies of farming, and the rights and wrongs of war. As with the Ethiopian peasants in the beer house in Makelle, I found myself drawn to the unschooled, natural wisdom of these so-called ‘simple’ people. Ours was an egalitarian community.

We talked long and hard about communism, which I argued made a lot of sense. If workers all belonged to Trades Unions and accepted fraternal discipline then wars could not take place. Every ill could be sorted by thought, care and love. If man can produce the beauties of this world – Dante, Cervantes, Bach, Mozart – then how can he destroy himself. At least that is what I believed then. Now I’m not so sure. I spent a lot of time with one fellow in particular, a young teacher, a Quaker named Eric Evans.

When war finally broke out that September, Eric went before a tribunal and explained his pacifist beliefs. He argued, successfully, for his right to be given the status of conscientious objector and was directed into agricultural work, which is how he ended up working alongside me on the farm.

Over the next year or so we became good friends. Eric was bright and always won arguments. We spent many long evenings together at ‘The Ship’ putting the world to rights. He was five years older than me and well read. He introduced me to the writings of Thoreau and Jefferson, Machiavelli and Spinoza all of which I read by the light of the gas lamp in my blackened out rented room on the Suffolk coast. Our conversations and those books were my substitute for a university education.

During the day, and many nights, I had duties as a shepherd. I sometimes had to help out at the birth of lambs in the morning and maybe butcher their mother in the evening. It had a big impact on me. Castrating lambs (with knife and teeth) toughened my nature.

The only people I kept in contact with were big black Bertha who sent me Christmas and Birthday cards, religiously – of course! - and François Joupin.

Since the German invasion of France, I hadn’t heard from François. But in December 1940, a man called me up in Suffolk and said that he had a letter addressed to me from François. The man, a M. Dupré, arranged to meet me the following day at The French House Pub in London, a well known haunt of the Free French and a rendezvous for anyone recently arrived from Nazi-occupied France.

I took the train down to London.

I found the French House Pub and made for the bartender. We had a friendly chat and he gave me a beer. Despite the number of people in the smoke-filled room, there was hardly a soul whose name the bartender didn’t know – especially the newcomers. He made it his business to find out. When Dupré came in the bartender gave me the nod.

He was an unsavoury little man with a puffy face and deeply stained brown teeth. He handed me the letter and made a quick exit. I bought another beer and sat down in a corner to read.






Maison de Tollecy
Prizy
Bourgogne

26 decembre, 1940

Joey, mon frêre,
It is not easy for me to get letters to you these days. Even though we are in the Zone Unoccupee (only by a kilometre or two!) all our letters are read by the foul Petainists and if people say things against the “beloved Marechal” they are sent to Germany to work in the factories to make weapons to be used against their own families.

Already it is becoming difficult to find food even here. The butchers left town a long while ago. People fight like animals for a few litres of petrol. The peasants are barricading themselves against the refugees from the north who try to steal their food and are ready to kill for it.

In the letter you sent via Mme. Fournier last year you said you were working on the farm in England. I hope you are still there and healthy.

Do you recall that bully Philippe Morseau? The one you knocked unconscious? Well now he has found his natural metier. He is the local Police Chief in Paray. He and his friends are more German than the Germans. He is using his position to settle old scores. I am surprised he has not come for me yet!

A few of the lads and I are living in your house. We look after it as best we can. I am not charging them rent because they have no money and I knew you would not mind. It is for a good cause. We have formed a group – there are maybe twenty five of us in all – from Prizy and the surrounding villages. We are training each other how to live rough and to use weapons and organise bits of sabotage to disrupt the Germans. I have found a newspaper that is published in Lyon that tells us what is really happening in the war. It is called COMBAT. Do you see it over in England? It is very good.

We have plans to blow up the police station in Paray-Le-Monial one day, if Philippe doesn’t get to me first! We are all dedicated to getting rid of the Boche from our French soil.

I wish you were here with us my brother. We would make a good team like we always did, did we not? Are you well? What is it like working on the farm? I know you will not be able to answer me but I like to ask the questions anyway.

I hope it will not be very long before we see each other again – in a Free France! I will look after the house for you. We repaired the broken window in the attic last week. We listen to La Beeb when we can.

Take care

Your brother,

François

I folded up the letter and put it in my jacket pocket. It got me thinking. I knew it would.

The following week I got a call from some man in the Ministry saying there was a need for a forester in Kent. The job came with a house. I took the train down to Kent the next day.

And that’s how I’ve ended up here chopping wood with Billy Knox on Lord Horley’s front drive as a large, black, chauffeur driven car drives by on its way to the big house.


2
Bosworth, the butler, escorts Colonel Buckmaster to the drawing room.

“Good morning Lord Horley. All well I trust?”

“Fine Buck, thank you. Have a cup of coffee? I think it’s still warm.”

Horley walks over, closes and, slightly to Buckmaster’s surprise, locks the door.

The two men sit down. Both had attended Eton and Oxford. They’ve met before. The protocol comes naturally. They are immediately at ease with one another.

Buckmaster is tall with a military bearing, outsized ears, sharpened vowels and an overhanging lip.

Horley is short but every inch an aristocrat. He wears thick glasses and has a brain as sharp as his tongue when fully engaged.

Horley isn’t even certain what Buckmaster does. All he knows is that he was one of the last people to be shipped out of Dunkirk and that he now works for some secret department in the Ministry of Economic Warfare that the PM and Hugh Dalton cooked up together; that it is entirely independent; responsible to no one but Winston Churchill personally and that it eats up a lot of money which, in Horley’s view, would be better off going to the official, and therefore accountable, armed forces instead.

He is about to find out more.

“Now Buck, as Minister responsible for funding your organization, among others, the PM has, at my request, agreed that you should explain to me exactly what it is you chaps are up to. All totally confidential of course.”

Anticipating Buckmaster’s reluctance to break his word of absolute secrecy, Horley shows him a letter from the PM to Sir Charles Hambro, head of something calling itself the SOE, authorising Buckmaster to tell all.

Buckmaster shifts uncomfortably in his armchair. He has never uttered a word about his work before – not even to his wife. But there is no avoiding it now.

“Very well, sir. A little bit of history first. As I understand it, the PM was frustrated by his predecessor’s insistence on always playing by the Queensbury Rules which Churchill believed had resulted in ignominious acts of appeasement. He therefore ordered the creation of the SOE or Special Operations Executive. It was designed to be a clandestine department charged with the express objective of sabotaging the enemy’s efforts in every way conceivable and aiding, arming and training Resistance movements in enemy-occupied territories.”

Horley frowns. “What is Dalton’s involvement?”

Buckmaster, aware of professional jealousies among ministers, treads cautiously.

“I believe, sir, that Mr Dalton, as Minister of Economic Warfare, recommended to the PM that the organisation should be set up entirely independent of the War office machine. The PM was in agreement but the received wisdom is that he didn’t want Dalton to be the man to run it.”

“Very understandable” said Horley, as he pours himself another cup of coffee.

Buckmaster continues “However Clement Atlee is a great Dalton supporter and as he was Leader of the Labour Party and a member of the coalition government, the PM was forced to listen to him. As a result on July 16th, 1940 Hugh Dalton was charged by the PM to, in his words, ‘Set Europe Ablaze’.

Horley looks despairingly at the ceiling.

“What’s more the PM decreed that the activities of the SOE must never be mentioned in Parliament. Dalton was given absolute powers, subject only to the PM’s approval.”

“Dangerous stuff, Buck. It’s got to be wound up as soon as the war is over. I’ll see to that. Go on”

“Well, as you can imagine, Dalton had a real struggle to get support for his case. The Military were viscerally opposed to the idea of a ‘private army’, particularly when they would have to compete with it for funding, as you would know better than anyone”

“Quite so”

“But the fall of France concentrated everyone’s minds on matters at hand and diverted scrutiny from Dalton – thereby releasing him to set up the SOE relatively unencumbered”

“What about those other shadowy Whitehall organizations. Don’t the Foreign Office and the War Office have similar departments?”

“They did sir, yes. Section D and MI(R) were both folded under the SOE umbrella.”

“Well at least there’s a saving there presumably?”

“Originally SOE was divided into two sections” he continued “a cloak and dagger unit and a psychological warfare and propaganda unit, but eventually they were combined into a single body”

“And where are they headquartered? In some secret bunker somewhere I suppose”

“No sir. In Baker Street. Number 64, formerly the Marks and Spencer headquarters. But it is expanding quite rapidly”

“Inevitably. It all sounds very fishy and open to misuse to me, Buck. Still I suppose it’s all for a good cause. Thank you for explaining it to me. I’d like to come and pay a visit one day”

“That would be a pleasure, sir” said Buckmaster, determined that no such thing will happen. “I hope it helps to explain why we so desperately need funding”

“I’ll do my best, Buck, but I can’t promise anything. The armed forces will also fight tooth and nail for that money” He walks Buckmaster to the front door.

“Thank you, sir. I know I can count on you.” Buckmaster pauses. “By the way sir, if you don’t mind my asking, who is that young forester you’ve got working in the drive? Shouldn’t he be serving his country? Looks pretty fit to me.”

“Joey? Well he’s an American actually. Some sort of pacifist too. Surprising fellow. Speaks fluent French would you believe. Very popular here I’m told. Good worker”

Buckmaster gets into the passenger seat of his car and indicates to the driver that they should go.

“Thank you sir. Good luck with the PM”

Horley waves good bye.

But Buckmaster’s mind is already on young Joey, the forester. Bright, strong and speaks fluent French. Couldn’t be better.

He leans forward to speak to the chauffeur. “Perkins, if that young chap is still working on the trees in the drive I want you to let me out while I have a word. You can drive on and wait for me at the gate.”


Billy and I are still sawing when the military vehicle we noticed before draws up beside us and stops. I amble over to the vehicle, pulling on my shirt as I go.

“Need some help?”

A man in uniform gets out of the car. His car then drives off. Strange?

“Are you Joseph?” inquires the uniform.

“Yup. How can I help?”

“I’d like a word if I may – in private?”

“And who are you, sir?”

“My name is Buckmaster, Colonel Buckmaster”

“OK – we could walk up the drive a bit.”

“That will be fine. Excuse us young man” he says to Billy “we won’t be long”

“That’s OK” I say, as we start to walk “he needs a rest anyway. What’s this about then?”

“Well, I can’t say a lot I’m afraid. It’s all very secret – but I understand you are a French speaker?”

“Yes”

“How so?”

“My mother’s family were French originally, before the Revolution. My uncle lived there and I lived at his house for eight years when I was growing up”

“Excellent. You are obviously fit and Lord Horley tells me you are intelligent and well-liked – in short you’re just the sort of person we’re looking for?”

“And who are ‘we’ exactly?” I ask “the Army? If so you’re barking up the wrong tree. There’s no way I’m going to join the army – British or American - if that’s what you’re thinking. I had my fill of war in Ethiopia.”

“You’re jumping to conclusions very quickly young man”

“Sorry sir, just don’t want you wasting our time”

“I’ll try to answer your question as best I can. Who are ‘we’? – well, officially we don’t exist. Despite my uniform I am now only nominally part of the Army, although ultimately we get our funding from the same place – which is why I came to see Lord Horley today.”

“Does he know you’re talking to me?”

“No – not yet. But of course I will tell him if we can come to an agreement.”

I say nothing.

“My organization is composed of people such as yourself. Men and women who all want to contribute to the war effort but don’t want to join the Armed Forces. Individuals mainly – experts, ordinary citizens, school teachers, housewives, labourers – pretty much anyone as long as they are strong, both physically and mentally. And, in the case of my section, speak good French”

“What makes you think I want to contribute to the war effort sir?”

“You don’t?”

“I know what war does to people. I’ve seen it. It stinks. I want no part of it.”

“Well I’m prepared to offer you the chance to help prevent that sort of war ever happening again. No need to make a decision now. Think it through. When you’re ready to talk give me a call. Here’s my card”

He opens a silver case and extracts a small visiting card.





Colonel Maurice J. Buckmaster
Inter-Services Research Bureau
83 Baker Street
London

Telephone Welbeck 2929



I glance at the card and put it in my pocket. “OK, thanks. So long Colonel”

“Good bye Joseph” Buckmaster walks up the drive to his waiting car.



Colonel Buckmaster starts me thinking. It’s a mixture of frustration, maybe a little guilt but it has a strange effect on me. Over the next two days I become broody and sullen. The sex with Lucy is perfunctory – she tells me she feels as though she could be anyone. We sleep together but we might as well sleep apart for all the good I do her.

“You’re shutting me out Joey”

“I’m sorry” is all I can say.

Eventually she stops coming around. I can’t blame her

The war is killing tens of thousands and now, with Hitler’s invasion of Russia, that’s turning into millions. Starvation and disaster are everywhere. I still believe in my pacifist principles but I am finding it more and more uncomfortable living a quiet life while others are dying for the likes of me. The stories about Nazi atrocities make my blood boil.

For a while I stop reading the newspapers altogether. I don’t even turn on the radio. But that makes me feel even more of an outsider. I know it can’t go on. I need to find my way of taking part in this struggle that’s gripping the whole world. How can I face others, how can I face myself, if I don’t?

One afternoon after work I come home, take off my boots and put them onto an opened spread of The Times of the previous day’s date – September 21st, 1942, in order to clean them.

I make myself a cup of tea and put it down on the newspaper. As I pick up a boot to start polishing I uncover an article in the newspaper. The words ‘Paray-le-Monial’ catch my eye. I clear the newspaper of boots and tea and read the short piece:

Following the explosion that destroyed the Headquarters of the French Police in Paray-Le-Monial last week a house to house search was conducted to find the culprits. No one was found. As a result severe reprisals have been meted out by the local commander. Disregarding the ‘border’ Commander Philipe Morseau broadened his search to the unoccupied zone. Among those shot were five suspected terrorists, one of whom had a wooden leg, from the neighbouring village of Prizy. The house they shared was razed to the ground as an example to others.


I take the next day off, catch the Eridge train to Victoria and make my way to Soho and The French House pub where I greet the bartender, buy a beer and ask for the phone.

I pull the crumpled visiting card out of my pocket and dial the number.


“Inter-Services Research Bureau. How can I help?”

“I’d like to speak to Colonel Buckmaster please. Tell him Joey is calling.”

“Joey? Just Joey?”

“Yeah, or Joseph.. He’ll know”

“I see. Thank you, sir. I’ll come back to you shortly.”

A series of clicks and silences are followed a few minutes later by a man’s voice.

“Hello. Joey?”

“Yeah, is that Colonel Buckmaster?”

“It is. How are you Joey?”

“OK. You suggested we meet. I’d like to do that”

“Where are you Joey?”

“The French House Pub in Soho.”

“Good. I’ll meet you and we can walk over and talk at my club – it’s quieter there”

“OK – I’ll wait here for you”

“Won’t be long” and he rung off.

I go back into the bar to drink my beer.

Twenty minutes later a tall, beak-nosed man in a crumpled grey suit walks in. He looks out of place and yet quite a few people seem to know him. He speaks perfect French. It takes a few minutes for me to recognize Colonel Buckmaster.

Moving through the bodies crowded around the bar, I make my way over to him, but he ignores me. I wait, unsure of what’s going on. Then Buckmaster abruptly leaves the pub. I decide to follow him. He is waiting at the street corner.

“Colonel?”

“Hello Joey. Sorry not to speak to you in there. Too many people. Could be some who don’t need to know that we know each other. Let’s go to my club. It’s not far.”


Five minutes later we enter one of those ‘Gentlemen’s Clubs’. Buckmaster has a word with a man called Richard who guards the door. A tie materializes and I am asked, well told, to put it on – the first tie I’ve worn in years.

The place smells like rotting flesh. I follow Buckmaster up the creaky grand staircase. Hundreds of dull looking men stare self-importantly down at me from their picture frames. At the top of the stairs there is a writing room with heraldic shields on the wall. An overfed club member is asleep in an armchair, snoring. Who the hell are these people?

Buckmaster beckons me into a little ante-room, rings a bell by the fireplace and then we sit down on matching red leather chairs. It feels like a stage-set.

A bartender, named Harry, comes in to take our order.

“Joseph, what’ll it be?”

“Beer, please” I say. Why does Buckmaster keep calling me Joseph instead of Joey?
I decide it must be one of the House Rules.

“One G&T and one Beer, Harry, thank you. And Harry, please close the door.”


We talk about this and that until Harry comes back with the drinks.

Once Harry leaves, closing the door behind him just as he was told, Buckmaster asks me why I’ve contacted him.

“I’ve had a change of heart. I’ve made up my mind. I want to be involved. I need to be involved. But I don’t want anything to do with armies, or Authority.”

Buckmaster takes a sip of his G&T. I can see that he’s pleased he’s ‘won’.

“I can’t tell you exactly what it is that we do, Joseph” he says, with his practiced nonchalance, “at least not until we’re further down the line so to speak. But what I can tell you is that, if you pass muster, you will be in a responsible position, responsible for recruiting and training others. You will be independent, to all intents and purposes. And the pay isn’t bad, and it’s tax free.”

I am more interested now.

“Oh, and it’s dangerous, very. There will be no one to support you except whoever you organise by yourself. There are roughly four hundred of us. There used to be more. Chances of survival are under fifty percent. Even less for the women.”

I listen carefully as Buckmaster talks on. I’m trying to figure him out. Do I trust him? I’m not sure. He doesn’t give much away. He tells me I’d be helping to end the war early; save thousands of lives. But he has to say that doesn’t he?

We finish our drinks. I guess the interview is over.

“Let me know when you make your mind up, Joseph” says Buckmaster as he stands up to leave.

But he knows that I already have.



3
Three weeks later

Captain Selwyn Jepson, civilised, meticulous, diminutive, prods thoughtfully at his pipe as he contemplates the young man sitting opposite him.

Joseph Quantock, 6’4” tall, striking looking, and very fit following his period of involuntary labour, is on the face of it an unlikely candidate for the role of secret agent where an ability to melt into the background is a virtual pre-requisite.

Nevertheless Jepson, a popular novelist adept at understanding characters, senses something special about the young man. He decides to see how he fares at the SOE training school in Wanborough, near the Hog’s Back in Surrey, and approves his attendance at the three week course. From the moment he is accepted for training, Joey is given a codename. Henceforth he would be known only as Luke, or more accurately ‘Luc’. No one, except Buckmaster, Selwyn Jepson and a very few members of the top staff at SOE’s headquarters in London, knew his real identity.




I feel foolish walking down Notting Hill in a prickly battle dress with a red pip on the shoulder and an odd side cap on my head. A young soldier passes me on the street and salutes. I wonder what the hell he’s doing for a moment and then I awkwardly salute back. I am officially a Second Lieutenant on a salary of £500 per year, tax free, and on my way to a training camp at some remote manor house near Guildford in Surrey.

My pass says “First Class to Guildford”. Sitting in a first class train carriage for the first time in my life feels even more uncomfortable than this uniform. At Guildford station a group of us wait around to be met by someone form the camp. We stare at each other like dogs or cats sniffing tails with our eyes. A military vehicle draws up and we all hop in. No clicking of heels or overdone saluting.

For the next three weeks we are hived off into groups for physical fitness and runs on the hog’s back; we learn Morse Code which we tap out on a simulated radio transmitter; we play at unarmed combat and, more excitingly, learn about detonators, primers and various explosives. I almost end my military career, and everyone else’s, by placing my charge on a piece of angle iron with the iron lying on top of the charge. Everything explodes as it should but three or four pounds of angle iron shoots up 50 feet or more into the air and seems to hover there as if selecting whose flesh it wants to dive into. After what seems like an anxious three or four minutes it buries itself in the quarry where we are standing. The sergeant instructor balls me out, quite rightly. I am ashamed.

We still don’t know what’s in store for us but it’s clear that we are being sorted out and judged. Some visitors come down from London, two majors and a woman officer of some sort, and take a meal with us. We think that maybe one of them is a psychiatrist. Although officially none of us knows what we are being trained for it is pretty clear that it must be something to do with espionage and, as we are all French speakers, presumably in France. But no official is saying anything. At the end of the three weeks we are given leave and told to expect a summons from HQ.





In the sparsely furnished bedroom number 238 of the Hotel Victoria, an enormous building in Northumberland Avenue that serves as his temporary ‘office’, Selwyn Jepson fingers the dossier that lies on the green baize covered trestle table in front of him. Its contents are not encouraging.

The Wanborough reports state that Luc ‘is a loner’ ‘taciturn’ ‘likely to be disruptive’ ‘enigmatic’ ‘would not take kindly to authority, even at a distance’ and, albeit reluctantly, recommends failing him.

On the other hand the Wanborough staff also remark that Luc is a man of ‘considerable intelligence coupled with remarkable integrity’; ‘sensitive, with few illusions.’ ‘Very much his own man’ ends the report.

‘Quite so’ thinks Jepson, after all, being ‘very much his own man’ was not a bad quality for an agent who would have to rely entirely on himself in the field, with only a dangerous, secret, radio link with headquarters – if it worked.


“Cigarette?” Jepson opens a tin of Russian cigarettes and offers me one.

“Thank you, sir. I’ll keep it till later”

“Now I’ll be honest with you, Luc” says Jepson, standing up “The team at Wanborough has serious reservations about your ability to serve in the field.”

He pauses. I wait. I think I can hear a “But…” coming.

Jepson walks over to the window to see more clearly into the bowl of his pipe. Apparently satisfied with his tobacco packing he gazes down onto the street below.

Just like a bloody schoolteacher

“But” he continues “I am willing to have them proven wrong. I am relying on you to do that. What do you say?” He turns sharply and looks directly at me.

“I say that’s the right decision sir”.

He smiles and hands me a train pass. “Very well Luc. You’re booked on the night sleeper to Glasgow. The train stops at Fort William. From there you will take the local train to Arisaig. You will be met at the station. The course you will be taking is very vigorous, both physically and mentally demanding, and designed to sort out the wheat from the chaff. Students learn a number of useful skills ranging from elementary Morse code and sabotage techniques, to how to kill a man with their bare hands within a matter of seconds. It lasts three months.”

Jepson sits down and takes a deep drag on his pipe.

“From the local inhabitants’ point of view it is a military establishment and you will, I’m afraid, have to wear uniform at all times that you are in public view. If all goes well we will meet again briefly before you become operational. If it doesn’t, we won’t, and you will be detained at an isolated holding camp for an indefinite period before being released back into the outside world. Is that all clear?”

“Perfectly, sir”

“Well as you’ll see you have a return ticket so I’m taking a positive view. Off you go then Luc. You’ve a train to catch. Good luck”

I walk out of the front door and join the rush hour crowds on Northumberland Avenue. The dusk and fog cocoon the slow-moving cars. I take the Underground to my temporary digs in Notting Hill Gate. My heart is beating fast. Even if I may have doubts mentally, my body is telling me physically that I’ve made the right decision. The adrenalin is propelling me forward.

Tuesday, September 19, 2006

Just a cup of tea, please

Among the sequence of words I most dread to hear are "Just a cup of tea, please". What's with the "just".........these tea drinkers pretend they are doing you a favor by asking for "just a cup of tea" when they must know it is ten times more work than "a glass of wine" "a cup of coffee" or even "a milk shake".

First comes the decision of what type - you have to rattle through all the boxes of "real" tea and then "herbal teas" in the cupboard. Not satisfied with just the names on the boxes they then demand that you read off all the specific ingredients (sometimes up to ten!) and then of course there's the additive question. Inevitably some are produced by organizations whose parent companies' dubious investments have recently attracted publicity and must ipso facto be boycotted.

"Real tea" is just as problematic - first off is it China? or India? If, like me, you're a Yank (albeit, after 40 years living here, Euopeanized to a degree) you will need to scrutinize the box to discover which is which. And then there are just as many choices from Lapsang Souchong to Rose Pouchong (I kid you not). Just when you think the tea drinker might be coming to a decision you discover that they are boycotting Twinings and will only drink Waitrose' Own.

"What about Fortnum and Mason's Royal Blend?" I ask, expecting capitulation when confronted with the "Royal" presence.

"That will do"......My God, the end is in sight! But oh no.....not so fast. "Bags?!" they holler. "Do you expect me to have tea made with tea bags?"

Back to the cupboard....thankfully I find a (hopefully but doubtfully) fresh box of 'Taylors of Harrogate' Earl Grey tea which, if not Royal is at least Aristocratic, and loose leaf! Bravo

Now to the perplexed question of how they like their tea made. Not too much difference of opinion on how to boil the kettle in my experience (though I bet there's a prejudice against electric kettles?) but there are gasps when I put the loose leaf Earl Grey tea into the tea pot without first warming the pot!

"What?" say I, rapidly depleting any patience reserves I might have, "the bloody pot's going to get warm with all that boiling water on top of the tea anyway".

The response comes with that sancitmonious, condescending look that tea-drinkers do so well......the sort of "no hope for this wretched individual" look that Miss Merill gave me in 3rd Grade when I asked an awkward question. "Just take my word for it, the tea will not taste properly unless it's allowed to steep (steep!) for at least five minutes in a pre-warmed pot".

Grrreat! Deep breath, and five minutes later the "steeped" tea is ready for consumption, almost. Sugar, yes or no? Lemon, yes or no? Milk, yes or no? warm or cold - or perhaps tepid? Cup or mug?

"Oh cup, always" (meaning "How could you be so stupid?") - "and China".....

"But you asked for Earl Grey, and that's India!" say I, exhibiting my new-found knowledge.

"No" ( that look again) "the cup must be made of china - it completely ruins the taste to drink out of anything other than china".

The tea drinker now (twenty stress-filled minutes later) has everything they want sitting in front of them.

"Any particular speed you would like it poured?" I enquire. A remark dismissed with a prolonged blink of the eyes.

"That's fine" the tea-drinker says after appraising a mouthful as if at a wine-tasters conference, "now where's your cosy?"

Saturday, September 09, 2006

UK Muslim Community

Why is it that the Muslim Community in the UK feel so excluded? I've been thinking about this a lot lately for obvious reasons.

As an American who's been living in the UK for a very long time I keep wondering why it is that Muslims in the United States feel much more part of the nation than do Muslims and many immigrant communities do here in Britain.

I've concluded that it has a lot to do with the fact that anyone born in the United States can become President or indeed fill any elected or non-elected office that is available to any other American. There is a feeling of inclusion and accessibility. Whereas in the UK, hidebound by tradition as it is, there is much that ordinary people, especially immigrants and the Muslim population whether immigrants or not, find irrelevant to their lives and impossible to identify with.

From the Monarchy (an anachronism if there ever was one) on down there is, in reality, a huge number of positions denied to ordinary people. I'm certain this creates a sense of isolation which in turn creates bitterness, anger and gives rise to the unrest that we see increasingly taking a grip of our world.